Domaine du Chardonnay – Chablis, 5 October 2017 2017 reveals once again that the weather directly affects the
Scores and Tasting notes given recently by Stephan Reinhardt from Wine Advocate for Domaine Marc Kreydenweiss. Great accolades….Marc and Emmanuelle Kreydenweiss are extremely proud of their son, Antoine….
Grand Cru Wiebelsberg Riesling 2015 / (94-95) Tasted from the foudre in April 2017, the 2015 Grand Cru Wiebelsberg Riesling is highly complex and intense on the nose, displaying gorgeous lemon, sandstone and smoky aromas. Very distinctive. Round and juicy, with fine tannins and an elegant acidity, this is a stunningly round and lush Wiebelsberg with a long and intense finish. I have rarely tasted such a sexy Wiebelsberg that is appealing rather to the hedonistic part of my soul.
Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling 2013 / 93+ The 2013 Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling is pure, floral and concentrated, but delicate on the nose that displays stony, flowery and honey aromas. On the palate this is a pure, very salty and persistent Riesling with a very long and mineral, complex finish. It is well concentrated, lean and well structured with grippy tannins that still need time to coalesce. There are rhubarb flavors in the aftertaste. The 2013 was bottled in June 2015 together with the Grand Cru Wiebelsberg 2014. It is still a baby with very good ageing potential.
Gewurztraminer 2015 l.d. « Kritt » / 89+ The 2015 Gewurztraminer Kritt is a classic Gewurz and offers a clear, elegant and fresh nose of lychees and rose petals, but also shows the discreet mineral expression of the quartz soils of the Kritt. Ripe, intense and lemon-fresh on the palate, with vitalizing acidity and lingering minerality, this is pretty complex Gewurz with tension, grip and freshness. Still a bit austere though. I’d cellar the 2015 for another 5-6 years.
Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris 2015 / (93-95) Tasted from the stainless-steel vat (after one year in 400- and 600-liter-oak barrels), the 2015 Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris opens with a clear, intense and spicy nose with some tropical and fresh fruit aromas along with sur-lie flavors. Lush, round and elegant, with a remarkable, racy-piquant acidity, this is a round and well-structured Pinot with a fine tannin structure, a lingering salinity, freshness and tropical fruit flavor. The creamy sweetness is well balanced by the full body, minerals and the crystalline acidity. This Pinot is cultivated on Buntsandstein (on the top of the cru) and marl (on the bottom) soils and has a very promising ageing potential.
Riesling 2015 « Andlau » / 89+ The 2015 Andlau Riesling is sourced from massal selections planted by Marc in 2000 on the sandstone soils on the bottom of the Wiebelsberg. The wine opens with a clear, lemon-fresh and stony nose that still indicates a bit of reduction. (So open the bottle some hours before you like to serveit.) Pure, fresh and crystalline on the palate, with juicy fruit, a lingering salinity and a nice lemon freshness, this is a finessed, but well-structured and pretty complex, Riesling that reflects the great terroir of Andlau as well as the good selection of old genetics. Fine tannins in the finish. Very good intensity and aging potential here as well. The wine was bottled after a long lees-aging in November 2016. Tasted in April 2017.
Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris 2014 / 92 From marly and sandstone soils, fermented and aged in demi-muids (600-liter), the 2014 Grand Cru Moenchberg Pinot Gris opens with an intense, deep and mineral nose of ripe and concentrated fruits with some lemon aromas. Full-bodied, fresh and round, with a lingering lemon flavor, this Pinot Gris has fine tannins, good acidity and good mineral grip in the finish. This is an elegant and complex, yet not extremely concentrated, dry Pinot Gris that was bottled unfiltered in June 2015.
Vendanges Tardives Pinot Gris 2010 / 94 From a bottle that had been open for ten days before I tasted it in May 2017, the 2010 Vendanges Tardives Pinot Gris is from the Moenchberg Grand Cru. Fermentation stopped naturally at 90 grams of residual sugar and 11% alcohol (after malolactic fermentation), and the wine was bottled with a low dose of SO2 in August 2011. It has a clear and aromatic bouquet with bright fruit and also saffron flavours. With great finesse, salinity and mineral tension on the palate, this is a pure and very elegant Vendanges Tardives that reveals a stimulating grip with fine tannins. It was fermented and aged in an 18,000-liter foudre.
Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling 2014 / 94 The 2014 Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling, bottled in September 2016 after two years of élevage in foudres, opens with an intense and floral bouquet that reveals a certain volatile acidity; flinty stony aromas remain in the background at this early stadium. Round and elegant on the palate, this is a pure and juicy Kastelberg with good mineral acidity, salinity, concentrated lemon fruit, and firm/mealy tannins that remind me of Pinot Noir. Still a bit dry in the finish, the 2014 needs another six or eight years, but should shine in ten and even in 20 years.
Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling 2015 / (96-98) Tasted from the stainless-steel vat (after one year in foudre), the 2015 Grand Cru Kastelberg Riesling is rich and intense on the nose, showing butter, herbal and pencil aromas for the moment. The attack on the palate is fresh and vibrant, revealing a delicate, though piquant, acidity along with great purity and lingering salinity. The wine develops great finesse and concentration and its tension and precision in the very long, intense and salty finish is mind-blowing. The tannins are firm, but perfectly polymerised. I tasted the wine again the next day when it started like a Chenin Blanc from the Anjou with concentrated quince and pear aromas on the nose. Rich, elegant and juicy, the wine again showed fine tannins and a long and intense finish with salt, orange and kumquat flavors. The 2015 might be on its way to becoming a legendary Kastelberg, but it is still a bit cloudy and can only be examined like a baby on ultrasound. However, first signs indicate this could become a giant one day, not in terms of bigness, but in terms of precision, concentration, finesse and mineral expression. The wine will be bottled with just 3 milligrams of SO2.
Pinot Blanc 2015 « Kritt » / 88 Points From silt and quartz soils, the 2015 Kritt Pinot Blanc has a clear, ripe and slightly mineral aroma of ripe pears. Pure, fresh, elegant and salty on the palate this is a light, but still very young, white with peanut-skin flavors and a stunning salinity. It is not really complex but lean, elegant and currentlymore driven by the quartz structure and acidity than ripe fruit. The finish is really salty and still a bit grippy, so keep this wine for another two years. It was picked at very low yield of 35 hl/ha and bottled in September 2016.
Pinot Gris 2015 l.d. « Lerchenberg » / 88 From the bottom of the grand cru Moenchberg, the 2015 Lerchenberg Pinot Gris is from deeper, richer sandstone and slate soils. The wine opens with ripe and concentrated tropical fruit intermixed with some lemon and earthy flavors on the nose. Round, lush and juicy, with concentrated lemon flavors and a piquant, crystalline acidity, this is a generous, charmingly sweet but elegant Pinot that will benefit from bottle age even though it drinks pretty well today.
Grand Cru Wiebelsberg Riesling 2014 / 94 The 2014 Grand Cru Wiebelsberg Riesling comes from red sandstone soils and a southeast-facing vineyard; it was bottled in October 2015. This Riesling has a clear,pure, fresh and intense, floral-flavored bouquet of lemon fruits intermixed with some oaky aromas. Pure, fresh and elegant on the palate, with a lush intensity, finely racy acidity and fine tannin grip (like Pinot Noir), the 2014 Wiebelsberg reveals a lingering citrus flavor and stimulating salinity. It is also characterized by its creamy, elegant texture and its fine tannins that give the 2014 an excellent ageing potential.