Tenute Silvio Nardi
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Brunello di Montalcino 2012 Tenute Silvio Nardi

Every once in a while I taste a Brunello di Montalcino which really hits the spot.  Regular readers will know that I am most sceptical about this grand style of Tuscan red wine.  I abhor over-oaked or hot (in alcohol terms) versions and the dark, sump oil, super-extracted styles upset me greatly, too.  Brunello should have fragrance, tenderness and also nobility in its make-up. It shouldn’t be any ‘heavier’ than a top-flight Left-Bank Claret. Sangiovese is not a dense red grape. It parades scent, brightness, crisp acidity and lift on the palate. Nardi’s 2012 has all of these elements and more. The fruit is superbly suave and the texture is what makes this such a compelling wine. It is juicy and smooth with pliable fruit, powdery tannins and lip-smacking acidity. This is a very well made wine which hits the Brunello bull’s eye dead centre. I have given up on the Brunello caricatures – I now only drink genuinely accurate wines and this is a perfect example. 18/20

Here are some notes from the winery –  Tenute Silvio Nardi’s harvest kicked off in the second third of September, one week earlier than usual. In the words of estate winemaker Emanuele Nardi, “it was a rather lengthy harvest, since the individual vineyard parcels were ready at different times, and also because the stable weather conditions allowed us to wait as long as was necessary. We completed the picking on 11 October in some of the vineyards in the northwest corner of the estate. Ripeness levels were outstanding in all of the parcels, and the crop size was quite moderate. Colour and extraction potential were excellent, but the phenolics were truly exceptional”.

I think that this very long and even harvest is the reason for this wine’s scintillating balance and completeness.

This wine is shipped to the UK by Champagnes and Chateaux. They report that the 2012 vintage is on the high seas heading our way and that the RRP is around the £35-£40 mark depending on retailers’ margins and that restaurants would probably list it around the £99 mark. I can heartily recommend this wine. Matthew Jukes

Decanter Brunello Di Montalcino 2012 Panel Tasting

Brunello di Montalcino 2012 Tenute Silvio Nardi

Appealing nose with red cherry and floral notes; perhaps a little less imposing on the palate, but this is a charming, easy-going style, without the intensity and power of some. Drink 2020-2017- Highly Recommended. Bruno Besa 91 Pts Michael Garner 92 Pts Susan Hulme MW 90 Pts

Three Estates in Montalcino – by Steven Spurrier

This sprawling estate in the north of the DOCG near Buoconvento was revitalised by Silvio Nardi in the 1950’s and is now organically farmed and managed by his daughter Emilia and her nephew Emanuelle. I first met Emilia about 20 years ago and immediately bought a case of her Vigneto Manachiara 1999 of which a few bottles remain in my cellar. A decade later she introduced me to her other single vineyard, Vigneto Poggio Doria, and my visit was to compare four vintages of both – the formed exposed to the east where the sun rises being full-bodied and powerful, and the latter exposed to the setting sun in the west being more elegant and complex.

2004

Poggio Doria (first vintage released as a single vineyard) Firm red, lovely elegant nose and perfect balance, a really fine expression of Sangiovese with florality setting it apart from other Brunellos. To 2022 – 94 Points

Manachiara Both richer and younger, shows perfectly the rich and robust fruit from clay soils, powerful yet balanced, a seamless integration of fruit and tannins. To 2024 – 96 Points

2012

Poggio Doria Good colour, still fresh and floral nose and a fine “feminine” profile despite the structure and depth, just opening up. 2017-26 – 93 Points

Manachiara Dense young colour, all black fruits, rich texture and broad, firm flavours, very good future. 2018-30 – 93 Points

2010

Poggio Doria Young red, nose more robust than expected, rich and smooth on the palate with a hint of raisiny grapes from lack of rain, but good drinking to 2024 – 91 Points

Manachiara Dense red, some maturity, fine nose, all of a piece and fine structure and energy will develop very well and become elegantly robust. To 2025 – 95 Points