What to drink with Beef Wellington? Dourthe recently started doing some great food pairings with their wines. Today
Walter Speller from Jancis Robinson visited Mauro Molino Winery early December to taste the new Barolos 2015. 2015 is an absolutely fabulous vintage in Barolo.
Below scores for Mauro Molino wines and Tasting notes by Walter Speller of JancisRobinson.com
Barolo DOCG 2015 – 16 Points
Their ‘Classic’, blended Barolo from three vineyards, two of which are in La Morra (Annunziata and Berri) and one in Monforted’Alba (Perno). A total of two weeks on the skin and aged in large (25-50hl) casks of French oak (Alliers and Tronçais), from Venetian Botti and Austrian Pauscha. Bottled in June 2018
Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Ripe, seductive cherry with top notes of spice and a hint of iron and earth. Open-knit, soft fruit with ripe, grainy tannins and just a bit of zippy acidity on the finish. Long, supple, forthcoming and approachable and with plenty of style. I keep thinking of Christmas goose but without a lot of trimmings. 14&. Drink 2019-2024
Barolo Gallinotto 2015 – 17+ Points
La Morra. Gallinotto in the Berri cru, a ‘Borgata’ (hamlet) that once was practically abandoned. ‘The zone is one of the oldest part of La Morra, and with very old mentalità, hence very little change or modernisation (until recently). In 1992 they bought the first plot and bottled it themselves for the first time in 2011. With the introduction of the official cru system the area’s name was changed to Berri. This is one of the highhest parts of La Morra, at 400m, and more ventilatd than Annunziata which is at 200m. ‘My father believed in this area, because historically it has been considered a zone of high quality’. Wide temperature variation between day and night. They own 2 ha (5 acres), with 1 ha for Barolo Gallinotto from the part that has the best southern exposure and with lighter soils, while the lower part is destined for their Barolo Classico. Two weeks on the skins and aged for 18 months, half in used barriques of second and third passage and half in large oak casks.
Just mid ruby with orange tinges. Intense and deep, minerally nose of cherry and notes of dark earth. Fantastic firm tannins supporting the cherry fruit. Youthful, compact, long and finely balanced. 14.5%. Drink 2019-2030
Barolo Bricco Luciani 2015 – 16,5 Points
0.85-ha (2.1 acre) plot right in front of the cellar. ‘It expresses the elegance of La Morra.’ Calcareous soil dispersed with sand and circa 40-year-old vines. More ventilated than their lower-lying Conca cru. Aged for two years in barrique (25% new, the balance being second and third passage). Bottled in January 2018.
‘We always bottle this immediately because the quantity is small and when they reach the market they already have a bit of bottle age on them.’
4,500 bottles produced. Clearly a shade deeper than their other 2015 Barolos and with the oak a little more obvious, yet the lifted, ripe-cherry fruit has no problem shining through. Succulent cherry-fruit palate with a big layer of sandy tannins. Very long, youthful, polished and succulent. Both tannins and fruit last for a long time and yet the whole is very immediate and ready with flattering oak notes on the finish. 14%. Drink 2018-2026
Barolo La Serra 2015 – 17+ Points
La Morra. Their first vintage of this cru was 2010 and the vineyard has been rented since then, with all the risks involved in an ultra-speculative land market.
The plot is at 400m elevation and only 0.4 ha (1 acre), from which 2700 bottles were produced in 2015.
Just mid ruby and a shade darker than the 2015 Bricco Luciani. Much more spicy, dark and savoury on the nose than the Luciani. The notably elevated spiciness with hints of cinnamon is a characteristic of La Serra, I am told, while the oak is perfectly integrated on the nose. A very elegant and supple palate, but the fruit, at least for the moment, seems a little muted. Is this caused by barrique? Gorgeous sandy, long tannins. 14%. Drink 2020-2030
Barolo Conca 2015 – 17,5 Points
La Morra. This plot of the Conca cru has been part of the estate from its inception and had a full southern exposition. The microclimate is therefore warmer than Bricco Luciani, ‘and makes it look like a Barolo from Monforte d’Alba resulting in deeper, more structured wines. This is our flagship wine.’ 50-year-old vines.
Mid ruby with orange tinges. Oaky at first and then balsamic with notes of liquorice and showing sensational depth. Needs lots of aeration to reveal this. Patience is required. Minerally too. For such an allegedly warm, sheltered vineyard this is an amazingly balanced yet concentrated wine with sweet, clayey tannins. The comparison with Monforte d’Alba is not wrong. Very youthful but already showing great promise and displaying such fantastic balance. 14%. Drink 2020-2032
Read Walter Speller article here: PREVIEW BAROLO 2015 WALTER SPELLER